19-Day Central Middle East Cross-Country Rail Journey: Turkey & Iraq in January
Embarking on a cross-country journey through the heart of the Middle East in January is a masterclass in atmospheric travel. This route takes you from the bustling, snow-dusted minarets of Istanbul across the vast Anatolian plateau to the fertile plains of Iraq, utilizing historic rail networks that offer a window into the soul of these ancient lands.
Traveling on an ultra-lean budget of $17.36 per day requires a commitment to the backpacking lifestyle: opting for shared dormitory beds, savoring street-side lentil soups, and leveraging local trains as both transport and accommodation. In the low season of January, you'll find the crowds thinned and the hospitality of the locals warmed by the winter chill.
The Itinerary
Day 1: Istanbul, Turkey - Arrival & Old City Walk
Arrival at Istanbul Airport
Touch down at IST. Take the budget Havaist bus to Sultanahmet rather than a private taxi to save significant lira.
Sultanahmet Square
Marvel at the Blue Mosque and the exterior of Hagia Sophia. Both are free to view from the courtyard, providing iconic photos for zero cost.
Galata Bridge Walk
Walk across the lower deck of Galata Bridge to watch local fishermen and see the city skyline against a winter sunset.
Street Food Dinner
Grab a Balık Ekmek (fish sandwich) from the boats at Eminönü for a traditional, ultra-cheap dinner.
Day 2: Istanbul, Turkey - Bazaars & Backstreets
Grand Bazaar Exploration
Get lost in the labyrinth of the world's oldest covered market. Window shopping and soaking in the history is completely free.
Süleymaniye Mosque
Visit Sinan’s masterpiece. It offers one of the best free panoramic views of the Golden Horn.
Spice Market
Sample free Turkish delight and enjoy the sensory overload of the Mısır Çarşısı.
Balat District Walk
Explore the colorful Jewish quarter, famous for its narrow streets and vibrant houses, perfect for budget photography.
Day 3: Istanbul, Turkey - Crossing to Asia
Bosphorus Ferry
Use your Istanbulkart for a cheap public ferry crossing to Kadıköy, the most scenic budget 'cruise' in the world.
Moda Seaside Walk
Walk along the Marmara Sea in the trendy Moda neighborhood, popular with local students and backpackers.
Kadikoy Market
Eat like a local at the fish and produce market. Try cheap Lahmacun for a few dollars.
Pack for the Rail
Head back to the hostel early to prepare for tomorrow's cross-country rail departure.
Day 4: Istanbul to Ankara (Turkey) - High-Speed Rail
YHT High-Speed Train
Board the YHT train from Söğütlüçeşme station. It’s affordable and zips across the country to Ankara in under 5 hours.
Anitkabir
Visit the massive, free-to-enter mausoleum of Mustafa Kemal Atatürk, the founder of modern Turkey.
Ankara Castle
Climb the old citadel walls for a 360-degree view of the capital city. It's steep but free.
Kızılay Square
Enjoy cheap student-priced meals in the heart of Ankara’s commercial district.
Day 5: Ankara, Turkey - The Dogu Express Begins
Museum of Anatolian Civilizations
Spend your morning seeing Hittite and Urartian artifacts in this award-winning museum (small entry fee).
Provision Shopping
Visit a local supermarket to stock up on bread, cheese, olives, and water for the 26-hour train journey ahead.
Board the Dogu Express
Depart from Ankara Gar on the legendary Eastern Express. This is one of the most scenic rail routes in the world.
Railway Socializing
The train is a social hub; meet local travelers and share tea as the train climbs into the snowy Anatolian plateau.
Day 6: Onboard the Dogu Express (Central Anatolia)
Winter Landscapes
Wake up to the sight of frozen rivers and snow-covered mountains through the window of your carriage.
Erzincan Stop
Step out briefly for fresh air during one of the longer station stops to admire the remote mountain stations.
The Euphrates River
The train snakes along the Euphrates, providing stunning views that are only accessible by rail.
Arrive in Kars
Pull into the final station late at night. Walk or take a cheap minibus to your pre-booked budget guesthouse.
Day 7: Kars, Turkey - The Ghost City of Ani
Shared Taxi to Ani
Find other travelers at your hostel to split the cost of a taxi to the Armenian border to see the ruins of Ani.
Ani Archaeological Site
Explore the 'City of 1001 Churches.' The medieval ruins against the winter snow are haunting and beautiful.
Kars Castle
Visit the fortress overlooking the city, which has stood since the 12th century.
Try Kars Goose
Kars is famous for goose meat. Look for a small local lokanta for a budget-friendly winter stew.
Day 8: Kars to Van (Turkey) - Bus Across the East
Intercity Bus
Board a comfortable, cheap bus heading south toward Lake Van. The scenery remains spectacular.
Lake Van Arrival
Check into a budget hostel in Van city. Explore the local bazaar, known for its silver and breakfast culture.
Van Fortress
Walk up to the massive Van Kalesi (Rock of Van) to see the sunset over the largest lake in Turkey.
Van Breakfast Dinner
Van is famous for its massive breakfast spreads; many shops serve it all day at a great price.
Day 9: Van to Erbil (Turkey/Iraq) - Border Crossing
Bus to Iraq Border
Take an early bus from Van to the Ibrahim Khalil border crossing. This is the main gate into Iraqi Kurdistan.
Border Formalities
Cross the bridge on foot or via shuttle bus. Most Western passports get a free/cheap VOA for Kurdistan.
Taxi/Minibus to Erbil
Catch a shared taxi (gara) from the border to Erbil. This is the fastest way to travel in Iraq.
Erbil Arrival
Drop your bags at a budget hotel near the Citadel. Eat cheap Falafel for dinner in the square.
Day 10: Erbil, Iraq - The Ancient Citadel
Erbil Citadel
Visit the oldest continuously inhabited city in the world. The main square and citadel entrance are free.
Qaysari Bazaar
Wander through the historic market below the citadel for local honey, Kurdish tea, and cheap snacks.
Minaret Park
Visit the Choli Minaret and the nearby parks, which are great for people-watching and free relaxation.
Tea in the Square
Join the locals for sweet tea in the main square—a quintessential and cheap Erbil experience.
Day 11: Erbil to Baghdad (Iraq) - Southward Journey
Shared Taxi to Baghdad
Head to the Baghdad Gara (terminal). Shared taxis are the primary way to cross the internal checkpoint into Federal Iraq.
Baghdad Checkpoints
Patience is key. The journey involves several security stops, but it is a fascinating look at the country's landscape.
Arrival & Tahrir Square
Walk through the iconic Tahrir Square and see the Freedom Monument (Nasb al-Hurriyah).
Dinner on Sadoun St
Try the local Masgouf (grilled carp) if you can find a group to split it with, or stick to cheap kebabs.
Day 12: Baghdad, Iraq - The Cultural Heart
Al-Mutanabbi Street
Visit the historic book market. It is the intellectual heart of the city and most vibrant on Friday mornings.
Shabandar Café
Drink tea in this legendary cafe where intellectuals have gathered for decades. A very cheap and atmospheric stop.
Al-Mustansiriya Madrasah
Visit one of the oldest Islamic universities in the world, located right on the banks of the Tigris.
Copper Market
Walk through the Safafeer Market to watch craftsmen beating copper into intricate shapes.
Day 13: Baghdad, Iraq - Museums & Palaces
Iraq Museum
See the treasures of Mesopotamia. It’s one of the most important archaeological museums in the world.
Baghdadi Museum
A quirky and very cheap folk museum showcasing traditional life in old Baghdad.
Abbasid Palace
Explore the last remaining palace of the Abbasid era, featuring stunning brickwork and courtyards.
Karrada Nightlife
Walk through the Karrada district for modern shops and the best street food stalls in the city.
Day 14: Baghdad to Basra (Iraq) - The Overnight Rail
Free Morning in Baghdad
Visit the Armenian Church or walk the Tigris corniche one last time.
Baghdad Central Station
Marvel at the British-built station, a landmark in itself, before checking in for your train.
Baghdad-Basra Overnight Train
Board the modern Chinese-built train for a comfortable overnight journey south. This is the backbone of Iraqi rail travel.
Dining Car Social
Visit the dining car for cheap tea and snacks while chatting with Iraqi families traveling south.
Day 15: Basra, Iraq - The Venice of the East
Basra Arrival
Arrive in the early morning. Take a taxi to the Corniche and watch the sunrise over the Shatt al-Arab.
Old Basra (Shanasheel)
Walk through the old city to see the decaying but beautiful traditional wooden balconies (Shanasheel).
Basra Museum
Located in one of Saddam’s former palaces, this museum houses artifacts in a stunning architectural setting.
Boat Trip on the Shatt al-Arab
Negotiate a small boat (ballam) for a 30-minute ride on the river for just a few dollars.
Day 16: Basra to Karbala (Iraq) - Into the Holy Cities
Shared Taxi to Karbala
Catch a 'Gara' shared taxi to Karbala. It’s a long drive through the southern desert landscapes.
Arrival in Karbala
The city is busy and vibrant. Check into a budget pilgrim hotel near the holy precinct.
Between the Shrines
Walk the vast marble plaza between the Imam Husayn and Al-Abbas shrines. It is free and visually stunning.
Free Pilgrim Food
In Karbala, you can often find 'Mawkibs' giving out free food and tea to visitors; it’s a beautiful cultural tradition.
Day 17: Karbala, Iraq - Spiritual Wonders
Al-Abbas Shrine Visit
Visit the interior (respecting local dress codes). The mirror work inside is world-class and free to enter.
Karbala Bazaar
Shop for traditional incense and prayer beads in the markets surrounding the shrines.
Al-Ukhaidir Fortress
Take a day trip to this massive 8th-century desert fortress (requires a taxi hire, split the cost!).
Evening Prayer Observation
Watch the lights of the shrines come on as thousands gather for evening prayer—a moving experience regardless of faith.
Day 18: Karbala to Baghdad (Iraq) - Final Stretch
Last Southern Breakfast
Enjoy a final traditional breakfast of Kahi and Geymar (pastry and buffalo cream).
Shared Taxi to Baghdad
The 2-hour drive back to the capital is efficient and cheap via local shared transport.
Mansour District
Spend your last evening in Baghdad's more modern Mansour district for window shopping and cheap ice cream.
Farewell Dinner
Find a local street stall for a final round of Iraqi Falafel or a Shawarma wrap.
Day 19: Baghdad, Iraq - Departure
Airport Checkpoint
Leave early! The Baghdad International Airport requires taking a specific shuttle bus from the Abbas bin Firnas Square.
Duty-Free Window Shopping
Spend your remaining Iraqi Dinars on small snacks or dates at the airport.
Flight Departure
Board your flight home, concluding an epic 19-day rail and road journey through the Middle East.
Best Time to Visit Middle East
For this specific route through Turkey and Iraq, January is the peak of winter. In Turkey, expect heavy snow and sub-zero temperatures in Kars and Ankara, making for stunning rail scenery but requiring heavy thermal gear. In Iraq, January is the most pleasant time to visit; daytime temperatures are a comfortable 15-18°C, perfect for walking the cities without the blistering heat of summer. This 'low season' also ensures the lowest prices for accommodation and transport.
Visas & Border Crossings
Turkey offers an easy e-visa for many nationalities, while Iraq’s visa policy has recently opened significantly. Most Western travelers can now get a Visa on Arrival (VOA) at Baghdad International Airport or the Ibrahim Khalil land border for approximately $75 USD. Note that the Kurdistan Region (Erbil) and Federal Iraq (Baghdad) have different visa stamps; ensure your visa allows travel to both if you follow this entire route. Keep multiple photocopies of your passport for the many checkpoints in Iraq.
Getting Around Middle East
This itinerary relies on the 'iron road'—the Turkish TCDD high-speed and scenic lines (Dogu Express) and the Iraqi Republic Railways' overnight service. Between rail hubs, the 'Gara' system (shared taxis) is the most efficient and budget-friendly way to travel in Iraq. In Turkey, intercity buses are world-class and very affordable. Always carry cash (USD or local currency), as credit card acceptance is limited in Iraq and smaller Turkish towns.
