6-Day Budget Guide to Fes: The Ultimate Backpacker's Route
Fes is the spiritual and cultural heart of Morocco, a city where time has stood still within the high walls of its ancient Medina. For the budget backpacker, it is a playground of sensory overload, offering intricate architecture and ancient traditions without the high price tag of more commercialized cities. By focusing on street food staples like maakouda and b’ssara, and staying in traditional riad-hostels, you can live comfortably on a fraction of what you’d spend elsewhere.
This itinerary focuses on the 'Classic Route' through the city's three distinct parts: Fes el-Bali (the old city), Fes el-Jdid (the Jewish quarter and royal area), and the surrounding hills. We've prioritized free landmarks and low-cost cultural experiences to ensure your wallet stays heavy while your eyes soak in the history of the world's oldest continuously operating university and largest car-free urban space.
Day 1: Fes, Morocco - Entering the Labyrinth
Bab Boujloud (The Blue Gate)
Start your journey at the iconic Blue Gate. It is free to admire and serves as the primary entrance to the Medina. Notice how the tiles are blue on the outside and green on the inside.
Talaa Kebira Walking Tour
Wander down the Medina's main artery. This is a free way to see the chaos and charm of the souks. Keep an eye out for donkey traffic and local artisans at work.
Bou Inania Madrasa
One of the few religious sites non-Muslims can enter. For a small fee (around 20 MAD), you can marvel at the intricate zellij tilework and carved cedar wood.
Street Food Dinner at Bab Boujloud
Eat where the locals eat. Grab a Maakouda sandwich (fried potato patties) for less than $1 at the stalls just inside the gate.
Day 2: Fes, Morocco - Ancient Crafts and Color
Chouara Tannery
Witness the centuries-old process of leather dyeing. While viewing platforms are technically free via leather shops, be prepared to politely decline sales pitches. The view is spectacular and cost-free.
Al-Attarine Madrasa
Explore this 14th-century educational masterpiece. The courtyard features some of the most delicate Islamic architecture in the city and costs only a few dollars for entry.
Kairaouine Mosque (Exterior)
While non-Muslims cannot enter, you can peek through the doors of the world's oldest university to see the stunning courtyard and prayer halls.
Place Seffarine
Watch the coppersmiths hammer away at massive pots. The rhythmic sound of the metalwork makes for a free, authentic cultural performance in this historic square.
Day 3: Fes, Morocco - Gardens and Jewish History
Jnan Sbil Gardens
Take a break from the Medina's intensity in these lush gardens. Entry is free, and it is the perfect spot for a budget-friendly picnic lunch under the palms.
Royal Palace (Dar al-Makhzen) Doors
You can't go inside, but the seven massive bronze doors of the Royal Palace are a must-see. The gold craftsmanship is a free photo opportunity that defines Fes.
The Mellah (Jewish Quarter)
Explore the distinct architecture of the Jewish district, known for its balconies facing the street, a contrast to the inward-facing houses of the Medina.
Jewish Cemetery and Habarim Synagogue
Visit the striking white-washed tombs of the Jewish cemetery for a small donation. It offers a poignant look at the city's diverse history.
Day 4: Fes, Morocco - A Journey to the Imperial Past
Meknes Train Excursion
Take the 40-minute train to the nearby Imperial City of Meknes. Tickets are extremely cheap (around $3), making it the ultimate budget day trip.
Bab Mansour
Stare in awe at the most grand gateway in Morocco. It’s a free landmark that stands as a testament to the power of Sultan Moulay Ismail.
Mausoleum of Moulay Ismail
One of the few active shrines in Morocco that non-Muslims can visit. Entry is free, though a small tip for the guardian is customary.
Hri Souani (Royal Granaries)
Visit the massive 17th-century granaries and stables for a minimal entry fee before heading back to the Meknes train station for your return to Fes.
Day 5: Fes, Morocco - Artistry and Steep Ascents
Nejjarine Museum of Wooden Arts
Located in a beautifully restored fondouk (traveler's inn), this museum costs about 20 MAD and features a rooftop cafe with great views over the Medina.
Henna Souk
Visit one of the oldest markets in the city. It’s a great place to buy traditional soaps, spices, and henna at local prices rather than tourist markups.
Rainbow Street (Rue Talaa Sghira)
A colorful, art-filled alley that has become a backpacker favorite for its vibrant murals and local art galleries. It's completely free to walk through and enjoy.
B'ssara Dinner
Find a small local hole-in-the-wall and order a bowl of B'ssara (fava bean soup) topped with olive oil and cumin for about $0.50. It’s the ultimate budget fuel.
Day 6: Fes, Morocco - Panoramas and Parting Views
Borj Nord
Walk up to this 16th-century fortress. While the arms museum inside has a small fee, the walk around the exterior walls and the view of the city is free.
Merenid Tombs
Explore these ruins located on a hill overlooking Fes el-Bali. It's a popular local hangout spot and offers the best panoramic view of the entire city for $0.
Sunset Hike to Mount Zalagh
If you have the energy, hike further up toward Mount Zalagh for a view of the sunset over the Rif Mountains and the Fes valley.
Final Souk Feast
Spend your last few Dirhams on grilled kefta skewers and fresh orange juice in the street markets near the Rcif gate for a festive final meal.
Best Time & Weather
The best time to visit Fes is during the spring (March to May) or autumn (September to November). During these periods, the weather is pleasant with temperatures ranging from 18°C to 25°C, perfect for walking the hilly streets. Summers can be brutally hot, often exceeding 40°C, while winters are chilly and surprisingly damp, especially inside the stone buildings of the Medina.
Currency & Money
The local currency is the Moroccan Dirham (MAD). Fes is very much a cash-based society, especially in the Medina and street food stalls. While large hotels and some restaurants in the Ville Nouvelle accept cards, you must carry cash for almost everything else. Tipping is common but modest; rounding up the bill or leaving 5-10 MAD at a local cafe is sufficient.
Getting Around
Inside the Medina (Fes el-Bali), the only way to get around is on foot. It is the world's largest car-free zone! To travel between the Medina and the Ville Nouvelle (New City), use the small red "Petit Taxis." Ensure they turn on the meter; a typical trip should cost between 10-20 MAD. For longer distances, the local bus network is very cheap but can be crowded and confusing for first-timers.
