19-Day Ultimate Budget Backpacking Route in Turkmenistan
Turkmenistan remains one of the final frontiers for the intrepid budget backpacker. Known for the gleaming white marble of Ashgabat and the fiery depths of the Darvaza Gas Crater, it offers a travel experience unlike any other in Central Asia. While tourism is highly regulated, a strategic approach using local trains and shared taxis can make this an affordable adventure.
This 19-day journey is designed for the frugal explorer. You will trade luxury for authenticity, dining at bustling bazaars and navigating the vast Karakum Desert on Soviet-era sleeper trains. Get ready for a deep dive into ancient history and eccentric modern architecture while keeping your daily costs remarkably low.
The Itinerary
Day 1: Ashgabat, Turkmenistan - Arrival & Marble Marvels
Arrival at Ashgabat International Airport
Clear immigration and marvel at the falcon-shaped architecture of the terminal. Take a local bus into the city center for a few cents.
Check-in at Budget Guest House
Drop your bags at one of the few registered budget-friendly hotels. Note that booking ahead is essential for visa purposes.
Ashgabat City Center Walk
Walk through the pristine, marble-clad streets of the center. Most of the monuments are free to view from the exterior, offering incredible photo opportunities.
Dinner at Tekke Bazaar
Enjoy your first local meal of Somsa (savory pastries) and green tea at the local market stalls for less than $2.
Day 2: Ashgabat, Turkmenistan - Monuments and Museums
Independence Park
Explore the vast park filled with statues of national heroes and the massive Independence Monument. It is completely free to enter and wander.
Arch of Neutrality
View the famous tripod-shaped monument. While the elevator to the top has a small fee, the ground-level views of the surrounding gardens are free.
National Museum of Turkmenistan
Dive into the history of the Silk Road. The entrance fee is modest and well worth it for the archaeological artifacts.
Street Food Near Russian Bazaar
Grab a Shashlyk (skewer) and fresh bread for a filling and cheap dinner.
Day 3: Ashgabat, Turkmenistan - Desert Markets
Tolkuchka Bazaar
Take a local bus to the outskirts for this massive open-air market. It is a sensory overload of carpets, camels, and local crafts.
Halk Hakydasy Memorial Complex
Visit this somber and impressive memorial dedicated to the 1948 earthquake and WWII. The scale of the statues is breathtaking.
Ertugrul Gazi Mosque
Visit this stunning Turkish-style mosque, which is one of the most beautiful religious buildings in the capital.
Self-Catering Dinner
Buy fresh produce and local cheese at the market to save on food costs for the upcoming train journey.
Day 4: Mary, Turkmenistan - The Silk Road Express
Train Departure for Mary
Board the slow train for a scenic journey through the Karakum Desert. This is the most authentic and cheapest way to travel across the country.
Arrival in Mary
Walk from the train station to your budget accommodation. Mary is the gateway to the ancient ruins of Merv.
Mary Regional Museum
A small but informative museum that prepares you for the archaeological sites you will visit tomorrow.
Local Mary Eatery
Try 'Fitchi' (meat pie), a local specialty in Mary that is incredibly cheap and filling.
Day 5: Mary, Turkmenistan - Ancient Merv Exploration
Sultan Sanjar Mausoleum
Hire a shared taxi to take you to the ruins of Merv. This 12th-century mausoleum is the crown jewel of the site.
Kyz Kala Fortresses
Explore the 'Great' and 'Little' Kyz Kala, unique corrugated mud-brick fortresses that date back over a thousand years.
Gyaur Kala
Walk through the massive perimeter walls of this ancient city site within the Merv complex.
Sunset over Merv
Watch the sun go down over the ruins before heading back to Mary city for dinner.
Day 6: Mary, Turkmenistan - Gurbanguly Hajji Mosque
Gurbanguly Hajji Mosque
Visit this massive modern mosque with its white marble and turquoise domes, a centerpiece of modern Mary.
Mary Central Bazaar
Explore the local food market. It's much smaller than Ashgabat’s but very friendly and significantly cheaper.
Park of Victory
A local spot where you can see families relaxing and enjoy a free walk among the fountains.
Evening Tea at a Chaihana
Sit at a traditional tea house (Chaihana) and enjoy local hospitality for the price of a pot of tea.
Day 7: Turkmenabat, Turkmenistan - Border Town Vibes
Train to Turkmenabat
Another desert rail journey heading toward the Uzbek border. Enjoy the changing landscapes of the Amu Darya river basin.
Arrival & Check-in
Turkmenabat is the second-largest city. Find a budget guesthouse near the station.
Amul-Charjew Settlement
Visit the ruins of the medieval fortress Amul, located just on the outskirts of the modern city.
Dinner at Dunya Bazaar
Eat where the locals eat. The food stalls here offer the best prices for Plov (rice pilaf).
Day 8: Turkmenabat, Turkmenistan - Repetek Nature Reserve
Repetek Biosphere State Reserve
Arrange a local transport to this reserve known for its 'hottest' temperatures and unique desert flora and fauna.
Desert Picnic
Enjoy a simple lunch of bread and fruit while observing the sand dunes. This is a free natural attraction.
Return to Turkmenabat
Relax and recharge. Use the evening to do laundry or organize your gear for the upcoming crater trip.
Local Coffee Shop
Surprisingly, Turkmenabat has a few growing modern cafes with affordable local snacks.
Day 9: Darvaza, Turkmenistan - The Door to Hell
Shared Taxi to Darvaza
Take a long journey back toward the center of the desert. You will be dropped at the desert junction.
Hike to the Gas Crater
From the road, it's a few kilometers hike to the crater. Watching the sunset as the fire begins to glow is free and priceless.
Night at the Crater
Experience the mesmerizing sight of the burning gas crater in the middle of the dark desert.
Stargazing
The desert sky here is one of the clearest in the world. Total cost: $0.
Day 10: Dashoguz, Turkmenistan - Journey North
Sunrise over the Crater
Take one last look at the inferno before hiking back to the main road.
Catch a Northbound Bus
Flag down a bus or shared taxi heading toward Dashoguz, near the border with Uzbekistan.
Arrival in Dashoguz
Check into a budget hotel. Dashoguz is a quiet town and very affordable for food.
Dashoguz City Park
Join the locals for a walk in the central park, a great way to observe the slow pace of life.
Day 11: Dashoguz, Turkmenistan - Konye-Urgench Ruins
Konye-Urgench Archaeological Site
Take a local minibus to this UNESCO World Heritage site. Explore the massive Turabeg Khanum Mausoleum.
Kutlug Timur Minaret
Marvel at the tallest minaret in Central Asia, standing at 60 meters high.
Najm-ad-Din al-Kubra Mausoleum
Visit the sacred shrine of the 12th-century Sufi teacher, still a popular pilgrimage site for locals.
Return to Dashoguz
Take the return minibus and enjoy cheap street food like Manty (dumplings) for dinner.
Day 12: Dashoguz, Turkmenistan - Local Markets & Life
Bai Bazaar
Explore the largest market in Dashoguz. It is great for finding local cotton goods and cheap snacks.
Lunch with Locals
Eat at a 'stolovaya' (canteen style restaurant) for the absolute lowest prices on hearty soups.
Dashoguz Theater District
Walk past the ornate local theater buildings; the architecture is a unique blend of Soviet and Turkmen styles.
Evening Stroll
The city is very safe for walking at night and costs nothing to explore.
Day 13: Ashgabat, Turkmenistan - The Return Flight
Domestic Flight to Ashgabat
While we focus on budget, a domestic flight in Turkmenistan is heavily subsidized and can cost as little as $15-20, saving a 10-hour drive.
Check-back into Ashgabat
Return to your previous guesthouse or try a different neighborhood for variety.
Wedding Palace Viewpoint
Take a bus up to the hill where the Wedding Palace is located for a panoramic view of the 'White City'.
Ashgabat Cable Car
A short trip on the cable car offers views of the Kopet Dag mountains for a very small fee.
Day 14: Ashgabat, Turkmenistan - Ancient Nisa
Old Nisa Fortress
Take a short taxi ride to this UNESCO site. It was the capital of the Parthian Empire and is set against beautiful mountains.
Kipchak Mosque
Visit the Turkmenbashi Ruhy Mosque, the largest in Central Asia, located in the village of Kipchak.
Museum of Fine Arts
See a collection of Turkmen carpets and Soviet-era paintings. Very affordable entry.
Ashgabat Night Fountains
The city comes alive with colored fountains at night. Walk from the fountain of Oguzhan for a free light show.
Day 15: Turkmenbashy, Turkmenistan - The Caspian Sea
Train to Turkmenbashy
An overnight or long day train heading to the coast. The cheapest way to reach the Caspian.
Arrival in Turkmenbashy
This port city has a very different feel than the marble capital. It is more rugged and industrial.
Seafood Dinner
Sample fresh fish from the Caspian Sea at a local waterfront shack for a budget-friendly price.
Stroll by the Port
Watch the ferries departing for Baku, Azerbaijan.
Day 16: Turkmenbashy, Turkmenistan - Awaza Exploration
Awaza Tourist Zone
Take a local bus to see the 'Las Vegas of the Caspian'. Walking through the parks and along the canal is free.
Awaza Beach
Relax on the public beach. While the hotels are expensive, the sand and sea are free for everyone.
Yacht Club Walk
Wander the canal-side walkways which are beautifully lit and offer great views of the futuristic architecture.
Back to Turkmenbashy for Dinner
Head back to the city where food prices are 50% lower than in the Awaza hotels.
Day 17: Balkanabat, Turkmenistan - Mountain Scenery
Bus to Balkanabat
Head inland to the city at the foot of the Balkan Mountains. This is a transit hub for the western region.
Balkanabat Market
A great place to buy local honey and nuts. Very authentic and non-touristy.
Hiking in the Foothills
Walk toward the base of the mountains for some fresh air and desert views. This is a great free activity.
Stay at a Local Guesthouse
Experience local life in a city that rarely sees foreign tourists.
Day 18: Ashgabat, Turkmenistan - Final Souvenirs
Return to Ashgabat
Take a final long-distance bus ride back to the capital.
Gulistan (Russian) Bazaar
The best place for last-minute souvenirs like Turkmen caps (Telpek) or dried melons.
Relax at Altyn Asyr Park
Enjoy one last walk through the manicured gardens of the city center.
Farewell Dinner
Splurge slightly on a meal at a local restaurant to celebrate the end of your 19-day journey.
Day 19: Ashgabat, Turkmenistan - Departure
Final Breakfast
Enjoy local bread and honey at your guesthouse.
Visit the Carpet Museum
If you have time, see the world's largest hand-woven carpet before heading to the airport.
Airport Transfer
Take the local bus or a cheap taxi back to the airport.
Departure
Say goodbye to the Hermit Kingdom after an epic budget journey.
Best Time to Visit Turkmenistan
The best time to visit is during the shoulder seasons of Spring (April to June) and Autumn (September to November). During these months, the desert heat is manageable, and the nights are not yet freezing. Summer (July-August) can see temperatures exceed 45°C (113°F), making travel across the Karakum Desert dangerous for those unprepared. Winter is short but can be surprisingly cold and windy.
Currency & Money
The local currency is the Turkmenistan Manat (TMT). While there is an official exchange rate, travelers should be aware that the country has historically operated on a dual-rate system. Credit cards are rarely accepted except in high-end hotels in Ashgabat. You MUST bring enough cash (clean, crisp US Dollars) for your entire trip. Tipping is not expected in local bazaars but a small amount in restaurants is appreciated.
Getting Around Turkmenistan
Intercity travel is best done by the subsidized state rail network, which is incredibly cheap although slow. For faster travel, shared taxis (marshrutkas) operate between all major cities and depart when full. Domestic flights on Turkmenistan Airlines are some of the cheapest in the world and are highly recommended for covering long distances like Dashoguz to Ashgabat. Within cities, the bus network is extensive and costs only a few cents per ride.
