19-Day Northern Middle East Undiscovered Gems: Iraq & Jordan in January
Embarking on a journey through Iraq and Jordan in January is a bold choice for the seasoned budget backpacker. This route skips the glitzy malls for the ancient 'Garages' (bus stations) of Baghdad and the hidden stairways of Amman. By leveraging local shared taxis, known as 'GMC' or 'Service' taxis, and sticking to the incredible street food culture, you can traverse these historically rich lands for less than twenty dollars a day.
January brings a crisp, chilly air to the region, making it the perfect time to explore desert ruins without the blistering heat. Expect cool afternoons and cold nights, requiring layered clothing. While Iraq remains an unconventional destination, the hospitality is unmatched, and your budget will stretch further here than almost anywhere else in the region. Prepare for an epic journey through the heart of the Northern Middle East.
Day 1: Baghdad, Iraq - The Arrival
Arrival at Baghdad International
Clear customs and take a regulated airport taxi to the city center. The crisp January air welcomes you to the 'City of Peace'.
Check-in at Al-Saad Hostel
Drop your bags at one of the few budget-friendly hostels in the Karrada district, a lively area perfect for safe evening walks.
Kahramana Square
Visit the famous statue of Ali Baba and the forty thieves, a local landmark that costs nothing to view.
Street Food Dinner in Karrada
Enjoy your first Iraqi Shawarma for just a few dollars at a local street stall.
Day 2: Baghdad, Iraq - Literary Alleys
Al-Mutanabbi Street
Explore the historic heart of Baghdad’s intellectual life. Browse thousands of books lining the street.
Shabandar Café
Sip traditional Iraqi tea (chai) in this century-old café. It is a mandatory stop for any cultural traveler.
Al-Mustansiriya Madrasah
Marvel at the 13th-century architecture of one of the oldest Islamic universities in the world.
Tahrir Square
Observe the local life and the Freedom Monument at the center of modern Baghdad history.
Day 3: Baghdad, Iraq - Ancient Ctesiphon
Day Trip to Ctesiphon
Take a shared taxi to Salman Pak to see the Archway of Ctesiphon, the largest single-span brick arch in the world.
Local Lunch at Salman Pak
Try 'Masgouf' (grilled carp) if you can find a group to split the cost, or stick to local flatbreads and hummus.
National Museum of Iraq
Return to Baghdad to visit this world-class museum housing artifacts from Mesopotamian civilizations.
Shorja Market
Walk through the chaotic, colorful spice market. It’s free to explore and smells incredible.
Day 4: Baghdad to Najaf, Iraq - The Holy South
Garage Al-Nahda
Head to the main bus station to catch a 'GMC' shared taxi to Najaf. It is fast, cheap, and very local.
Imam Ali Shrine
Visit one of the most beautiful and holiest sites in the world. Non-Muslims can usually view the exterior and courtyard.
Wadi-us-Salaam
Visit the 'Valley of Peace', the world's largest cemetery, stretching for miles. An eerie but beautiful site.
Night in Najaf
Stay in a simple 'Mousafir' (pilgrim house) for an ultra-low-cost accommodation experience.
Day 5: Najaf & Karbala, Iraq - Sacred Architecture
Shared Taxi to Karbala
A short 1.5-hour ride takes you to another holy city, Karbala.
Imam Husayn Shrine
Observe the stunning golden domes and the incredible devotion of the pilgrims. The atmosphere is electric.
Al-Abbas Shrine
Located just across a marble plaza, this shrine is equally breathtaking. Entry to the courtyards is free.
Street Kebabs
Karbala has some of the cheapest and best kebabs in Iraq. Eat where the locals crowd the counter.
Day 6: Karbala to Baghdad to Erbil - The Long Haul
Return to Baghdad
Take a shared taxi back to Baghdad's northern garage.
Iraqi Republic Railways
Check if the overnight train to Erbil is running; if not, head to the bus terminal for a VIP coach.
Bus to Erbil
Board a long-distance bus heading north toward Iraqi Kurdistan. The scenery changes as mountains appear.
Arrival in Erbil
Check into a hostel in the Christian district of Ainkawa or near the Citadel.
Day 7: Erbil, Iraq - The Citadel Heights
Erbil Citadel
Explore this UNESCO World Heritage site, claimed to be the oldest continuously inhabited settlement on earth.
Qaysari Bazaar
Wander the labyrinthine paths of the bazaar beneath the citadel. Sample local Kurdish honey and nuts.
Kurdish Textile Museum
Located inside the Citadel, this small museum offers a deep dive into local craft history for a small fee.
Dinner in Ainkawa
This district is known for its relaxed atmosphere and excellent Kurdish food.
Day 8: Erbil, Iraq - Rawanduz Canyon
Hamilton Road Drive
Hire a shared driver or take a local minibus toward Rawanduz to see the dramatic mountain canyons.
Bekhal Waterfall
In January, the waterfalls are powerful and the surrounding mountains may have a dusting of snow.
Pank Resort Views
Ride the cable car for an incredible view of the canyon floor far below.
Return to Erbil
Rest your legs after a long day of mountain air and breathtaking vistas.
Day 9: Erbil, Iraq - Garden City Relaxation
Sami Abdulrahman Park
Join locals for a morning walk in the largest park in Iraq, built on a former military base.
Jalil Khayat Mosque
Visit this stunning mosque, reminiscent of the Blue Mosque in Istanbul, known for its intricate interiors.
Tea at the Citadel Gate
People-watch at the main square as the sun sets over the ancient walls.
Pack for Jordan
Prepare your documents for the flight to Amman. Double-check visa requirements for the next leg.
Day 10: Erbil to Amman, Jordan - Crossing Borders
Flight to Amman
Take a budget flight (Pegasus or Royal Jordanian) from Erbil to Amman Queen Alia International.
Airport Express Bus
Avoid expensive taxis; take the yellow Sariyah bus to the North Bus Station or Tabarbour.
Hostel Check-in in Downtown
Amman's downtown (Balad) is the best place for budget travelers and proximity to cheap eats.
Hashem Restaurant
Eat like a king for $3 at this legendary open-air spot. Order the falafel, hummus, and fuul.
Day 11: Amman, Jordan - The Seven Hills
Amman Citadel (Jabal al-Qal'a)
Walk uphill to see the Temple of Hercules. Use your Jordan Pass for free entry.
Roman Theatre
Walk back down to the 6,000-seat theatre, an impressive relic of the city’s Roman past.
Duke's Diwan
Visit one of the oldest heritage houses in Amman. It's a quiet, free sanctuary in the middle of the bustle.
Rainbow Street
Stroll through the trendy district for window shopping and a cup of tea at a rooftop café.
Day 12: Amman, Jordan - Markets and Mosaics
King Abdullah I Mosque
Recognizable by its blue mosaic dome, this mosque is open to tourists outside of prayer times.
Souq Jara
If visiting on a weekend, explore the local handicrafts and street food at this vibrant market.
Jordan Museum
Learn about the Dead Sea Scrolls and the country’s ancient history in this modern facility.
Habibah Sweets
Join the long queue for 'Kunafeh', the best sweet treat in Jordan, for just $1.
Day 13: Amman to Jerash, Jordan - Roman Ruins
Local Bus to Jerash
Catch a minibus from the North Bus Station. It’s cheap and takes you directly to the ruins.
Exploring Gerasa
Walk through the Oval Plaza, the Cardo Maximus, and the stunning Hadrian’s Arch. Use your Jordan Pass.
Jerash Archaeological Museum
See the artifacts found on-site before heading back to the bus stop.
Return to Amman
Back in Amman, head to the Paris Circle in Jabal Lweibdeh for a relaxed evening.
Day 14: Amman to Wadi Musa (Petra) - The Kings Highway
JETT Bus to Petra
Take the reliable JETT bus from Abdali station for a comfortable 3-hour journey to Wadi Musa.
Wadi Musa Arrival
Check into a budget guesthouse. This town is the gateway to Petra and is very walkable.
Little Petra (Siq al-Barid)
Take a local shuttle to 'Little Petra' for a free preview of the Nabataean carvings.
Budget Dinner
Eat at the local 'Saj' shops in the town center to save significantly over the tourist restaurants near the gate.
Day 15: Petra, Jordan - The Treasury
The Siq
Arrive at the gate as it opens. Walk through the narrow gorge in the cold morning air—it’s magical.
The Treasury (Al-Khazneh)
Behold the iconic façade before the crowds arrive. This is the moment you traveled for.
Royal Tombs
Explore the massive facades carved into the rock face. The scale is incredible.
The Monastery (Ad Deir)
Hike the 800 steps to the Monastery. In January, the hike is pleasant rather than punishing.
Day 16: Petra, Jordan - High Altars
High Place of Sacrifice
Take the steep trail for panoramic views of the entire archaeological park.
Wadi Farasa Trail
Descend via the 'Garden Tomb' and 'Soldier's Tomb'—a much less crowded and more scenic route.
Colonnaded Street
Walk the ancient Roman road that runs through the heart of the city.
Wadi Musa Hammam
Treat your sore muscles to a traditional Turkish bath in town for a few dinars.
Day 17: Petra to Wadi Rum, Jordan - Martian Landscapes
Morning Bus to Wadi Rum
Catch the once-daily backpacker bus from Wadi Musa to the Wadi Rum Visitor Center.
4x4 Desert Tour
Join a shared jeep tour to see Lawrence’s Spring, sand dunes, and rock bridges.
Sunset in the Sands
Watch the red desert turn deep purple as the sun sets. The January stars are incredibly clear.
Bedouin Dinner (Zarb)
Enjoy meat and vegetables cooked underground at your desert camp.
Day 18: Wadi Rum to Amman, Jordan - The Return
Camel Trek
Take a short morning camel ride back to the village for a traditional desert experience.
Shared Taxi to Highway
Take a taxi to the desert highway junction to catch a passing bus back to Amman.
Return to Amman
Check back into your downtown hostel and enjoy one last evening in the capital.
Farewell Dinner
Visit Al-Quds on Rainbow Street for their famous Mansaf (national dish) if your budget permits.
Day 19: Amman, Jordan - Last Souvenirs
Shopping in the Balad
Pick up cheap spices, Dead Sea mud soaps, and keffiyehs for friends back home.
Jordan National Gallery of Fine Arts
A quiet, free, or very cheap museum showcasing contemporary art from the Middle East.
Airport Express
Head back to the airport for your evening flight home.
Departure
End of an epic 19-day journey through the undiscovered gems of the north.
Best Time to Visit Middle East
The best time to visit the Northern Middle East is during the shoulder seasons of Autumn (October to November) and Spring (March to May). However, January is a fantastic 'secret' season for budget travelers. While the nights in the desert and the Iraqi mountains can be freezing, the days are crisp, clear, and perfect for walking through vast archaeological sites like Petra and Jerash without the crowds or the heat. Low season prices for accommodation are also significantly lower during this period.
Visas & Border Crossings
For Iraq, many nationalities can now obtain a visa on arrival at major airports for approximately $75 USD, but always check the latest regulations for Federal Iraq versus Iraqi Kurdistan. In Jordan, the 'Jordan Pass' is your best friend—it covers your visa fee (if staying 3+ nights) and entry to over 40 sites. The border between Iraq and Jordan is open but primarily used by commercial traffic and locals; flying between Baghdad/Erbil and Amman is the most efficient and safest route for international travelers.
Getting Around Middle East
Transportation in this region is dominated by shared taxis (Service) and minibuses. In Iraq, look for 'Garages' in every city where 'GMC' taxis wait to fill up before departing—this is the fastest way to travel between Baghdad and Najaf. In Jordan, the JETT bus system is the high-end option, while local white minibuses are the budget choice. For international travel between the two countries, budget airlines like Pegasus or FlyBaghdad offer affordable connections that save days of overland travel.
