19-Day Central Asia Cross-Country Rail Journey: Kazakhstan & Uzbekistan in July
Embarking on a cross-country rail journey through Central Asia is one of the last true frontiers for the dedicated budget backpacker. This 19-day odyssey takes you through the heart of the Silk Road, utilizing the incredibly affordable and scenic rail networks of Kazakhstan and Uzbekistan. You will experience the transition from the high-altitude greenery of Almaty to the desert oases of Samarkand and Bukhara, all while keeping your daily costs at a rock-bottom average of $14.65.
In July, Central Asia is bathed in intense summer sun, making early morning exploration and evening social life in the squares essential. By staying in hostels, eating local 'samsa' and 'plov' from street stalls, and traveling in 'platskart' (third-class sleeper) train carriages, you'll not only save money but also immerse yourself in the legendary hospitality of the region.
Day 1: Almaty, Kazakhstan - Arrival & High-Altitude Views
Arrival at Almaty International Airport
Touch down in Kazakhstan's former capital. Take the local bus #79 or #86 into the city center for less than $0.25 rather than an expensive taxi.
Green Bazaar Lunch
Wander through the historic Zenkov Cathedral in Panfilov Park before heading to the Green Bazaar. Grab a heap of fresh fruit and local bread for a few dollars.
Kok-Tobe Hill
Take the local bus to the cable car station. Instead of the expensive ride, hike up for free to see the city skyline against the Trans-Ili Alatau mountains.
Hostel Social Hour
Check into your hostel in the city center. Almaty hostels are known for being clean, modern, and incredibly social.
Day 2: Almaty, Kazakhstan - The Medeu Valley
Bus to Medeu
Catch bus #12 from the city center to the Medeu High-Altitude Ice Rink. The ride costs pennies and offers incredible mountain views.
Stairway to Shymbulak
Climb the 842 steps above the rink for a panoramic view of the dam and the peaks beyond. It's a grueling workout but completely free.
Picnic at the Dam
Enjoy snacks bought from the bazaar yesterday while watching the summer clouds roll over the 4,000m peaks.
Street Food Dinner
Return to the city for Shashlik (meat skewers) at a local 'kafe' where locals eat. High protein, low cost.
Day 3: Almaty, Kazakhstan - Museum & Modern Vibes
Central State Museum
Learn about Kazakhstan's history from the Bronze Age to the space age. The entry fee is minimal for international students.
Arbat Pedestrian Street
Walk the Arbat to see local artists and street performers. It's the best place for people-watching in the July heat.
First President's Park
A massive, well-manicured free park perfect for a late afternoon stroll near the fountains.
Pack for the Rails
Prepare your supplies for the first long-distance train journey tomorrow.
Day 4: Almaty to Shymkent - The Great Kazakh Steppe
Almaty-2 Railway Station
Board the daytime scenic train toward Shymkent. The 'Talgo' is faster, but the older Soviet trains are cheaper and better for meeting locals.
Steppe Watching
Watch the endless horizon of the Kazakh steppe. It's a meditative experience and a highlight of Central Asian rail travel.
Train Tea Culture
Rent a 'podstakannik' (tea glass holder) from the carriage attendant and share tea with your cabin mates.
Arrival in Shymkent
Check into a budget hostel near the station for a quick sleep.
Day 5: Shymkent, Kazakhstan - Gateway to the South
Bazaar Morning
Explore the Shymkent Upper Bazaar. It’s authentic, chaotic, and significantly cheaper than Almaty.
Independence Park
Walk through the massive park and see the monuments dedicated to the Kazakh nation.
Tulip Fountain
Visit the iconic tulip-shaped fountain, a symbol of the city, especially vibrant during the July sunny afternoons.
Beer & Laghman
Enjoy a bowl of hand-pulled Laghman noodles and a local Shymkentskoe beer at a street-side cafe.
Day 6: Shymkent to Tashkent - Crossing the Border
Marshrutka to Chernyaevka
Take a shared van (marshrutka) to the Uzbek border crossing. This is the cheapest way to enter Uzbekistan.
The Border Crossing
Cross the border on foot. Once in Uzbekistan, take a cheap local taxi or bus to the Tashkent metro station.
Check-in Tashkent
Drop your bags at a budget hostel in the Chorsu area.
Tashkent Metro Tour
The Tashkent Metro is a subterranean museum. For one token (approx $0.12), you can visit every station. Don't miss Alisher Navoi or Kosmonavtlar.
Day 7: Tashkent, Uzbekistan - Old City & Bazaars
Chorsu Bazaar
This massive blue-domed market is the heart of Tashkent. Grab a breakfast of hot samsa from the outdoor ovens.
Hazrati Imam Complex
Visit the religious heart of the city, home to one of the world's oldest Qurans. The complex is free to enter.
Kukeldash Madrasah
Explore this 16th-century Islamic school located just steps away from the bazaar.
Plov Center
Visit the Central Asian Plov Center. Watch giant cauldrons of Uzbekistan's national dish being cooked and eat a massive portion for under $3.
Day 8: Tashkent, Uzbekistan - Modern Monuments
Independence Square
Walk through the vast 'Mustaqillik Maydoni', a symbol of Uzbekistan's modern identity.
Museum of Applied Arts
A stunningly decorated house-turned-museum showcasing traditional Uzbek crafts. Very affordable entry.
Minor Mosque
Also known as the 'White Mosque,' this modern marble masterpiece is best seen in the late afternoon glow.
Evening Chill
Relax at a local 'Chaikhana' (tea house) and enjoy the cooler evening air with green tea.
Day 9: Tashkent to Samarkand - The Afrosiyob Express
Tashkent Rail Station
Board the Afrosiyob high-speed train. It whisks you to Samarkand in just 2 hours.
Arrival in Samarkand
Drop your bags and head straight to the Registan. Even if you don't go inside every madrasah, the square itself is breathtaking and free to view.
Bibi-Khanym Mosque
Once one of the largest mosques in the Islamic world. The exterior is massive and photogenic.
Siyob Bazaar
The best place to buy Samarkand’s famous heavy bread (Non) for a cheap dinner.
Day 10: Samarkand, Uzbekistan - The Necropolis
Shah-i-Zinda
Visit the 'Tomb of the Living King'. Arrive early to avoid the July heat and the crowds. The blue tilework is unparalleled.
Ulugh Beg Observatory
See where a 15th-century astronomer calculated the length of the year with incredible accuracy.
Gur-e-Amir
The mausoleum of the conqueror Tamerlane. The interior is covered in gold leaf and jade.
Light Show at Registan
Watch the free light show that often takes place after dark at the Registan square.
Day 11: Samarkand, Uzbekistan - Local Life
Paper Mill Visit
Take a cheap bus to Konigil village to see the traditional Samarkand paper-making process. The setting is cool and shaded by trees.
Street Plov
Find a local neighborhood 'Oshkhona' for the best and cheapest plov in the city.
St. Daniel's Tomb
A peaceful site shared by three religions, located on the banks of the Siab river.
Hostel BBQ
Many hostels in Samarkand host communal dinners in their courtyards—great for budget travelers.
Day 12: Samarkand to Bukhara - Into the Desert
Train to Bukhara
Take the Sharq train. It’s slower than the Afrosiyob but much cheaper and offers a view of the Kyzylkum Desert.
Bukhara Arrival
Take a local minibus from the Kagan station into the Bukhara Old City.
Lyabi-Hauz
Relax by the ancient reservoir surrounded by mulberry trees. It’s the social heart of Bukhara.
Chor Minor
Visit the small but iconic four-minaret madrasah tucked away in the backstreets. It’s free to photograph.
Day 13: Bukhara, Uzbekistan - The Holy City
Po-i-Kalyan Complex
The spiritual center of Bukhara. The 12th-century minaret was so impressive even Genghis Khan spared it.
The Ark of Bukhara
The massive fortress that served as the residence of the Emirs. Walk the perimeter for free or pay a small fee to enter the museum.
Bolo Haouz Mosque
Visit the 'Mosque of 40 Columns'. The reflection in the pool is stunning in the afternoon sun.
Trading Domes
Wander through the ancient domes where silk and spices have been traded for centuries. Great for window shopping.
Day 14: Bukhara, Uzbekistan - Summer Palaces
Sitorai Mokhi-Khosa
Take a cheap local taxi to the Emir's Summer Palace. It’s significantly cooler than the city center and has roaming peacocks.
Chor Bakr Necropolis
A 'city of the dead' located outside the city. It’s off the main tourist trail and very atmospheric.
Samanid Mausoleum
Visit this 10th-century brick masterpiece in Ismail Samani Park. The brickwork is designed to change with the light.
Night Train Prep
Pick up snacks and water for the long journey to Khiva tomorrow.
Day 15: Bukhara to Khiva - The Long Desert Rail
Bukhara Station
Board the train to Khiva. This is a classic desert route through the Kyzylkum. There are only a few trains per week, so plan carefully.
Desert Landscapes
Enjoy the isolation of the desert. This is the perfect time to write in your travel journal or chat with fellow backpackers.
Sunset on the Rails
Watch the sun set over the dunes from the window of the train.
Arrival in Khiva
The train station is right next to the historic Itchan Kala (Old City). Walk to your hostel inside the walls.
Day 16: Khiva, Uzbekistan - The Museum City
Itchan Kala Walk
Khiva is an open-air museum. Buy a 2-day ticket that covers almost every site inside the walls.
Kalta Minor Minaret
The iconic turquoise-tiled short minaret. It’s one of the most photographed spots in Central Asia.
Juma Mosque
Step inside this unique mosque with 213 carved wooden columns. It’s naturally cool and quiet.
Sunset on the Walls
Climb the city walls for sunset. It’s the best view of the desert city as the lights come on.
Day 17: Khiva, Uzbekistan - Minarets & Palaces
Islam Khoja Minaret
Climb the tallest minaret in Khiva for a bird's-eye view. The stairs are steep and narrow!
Tosh-Hovli Palace
Explore the 'Stone House' palace with its beautiful courtyard and intricate blue tiles.
Pahlavan Mahmoud Mausoleum
The most beautiful interior in Khiva, dedicated to a local hero, poet, and wrestler.
Dilligush Dinner
Try the local Khorezmian specialty, 'Shivut Oshi' (green dill noodles), at a small family-run eatery.
Day 18: Khiva to Urgench - Farewell to the Oasis
Last Souvenir Hunt
Khiva is famous for camel-hair socks and carved wood. Prices are lower here than in Samarkand.
Trolleybus to Urgench
Take the world's only inter-city trolleybus from Khiva to Urgench. It’s a 35km ride that costs less than $0.50.
Urgench Market
Spend your last Uzbek Som at the Urgench bazaar on dried fruits and nuts for the flight home.
Farewell Dinner
Enjoy a final feast of kebabs and green tea with your travel companions.
Day 19: Urgench - Departure
Urgench International Airport
Take a short taxi ride to the airport. Most international flights depart early in the morning.
Reflection
Look back on 19 days of incredible rail travel across the heart of Asia.
Best Time to Visit Asia
For Central Asia, the best time to visit is typically spring (April to June) or autumn (September to October). However, July is perfect for those who want to experience the vibrant festival season and clear mountain views in Kazakhstan. While the desert cities of Uzbekistan reach high temperatures (40°C+), the dry heat is manageable with a midday siesta and plenty of green tea, just as the locals do. Traveling in July also means fewer tourists at major landmarks and the peak of the fruit harvest—don't miss the legendary melons!
Visas & Border Crossings
Uzbekistan and Kazakhstan have significantly liberalized their visa regimes recently. Many nationalities (including EU, UK, and USA) can enter Kazakhstan visa-free for up to 30 days and Uzbekistan for up to 30 days. The land border crossing between Shymkent (Kazakhstan) and Tashkent (Uzbekistan) is straightforward but involves walking through several checkpoints. Always ensure you have a few small US dollar bills for emergencies, though ATMs are now widespread in major cities like Almaty and Tashkent. Always keep your registration slips in Uzbekistan, as some hotels still provide them.
Getting Around Asia
The backbone of this itinerary is the extensive Soviet-built rail network. In Kazakhstan, the 'Talgo' trains are modern and fast, while the older passenger trains provide a classic experience. In Uzbekistan, the 'Afrosiyob' high-speed train connects the major tourist cities in record time. For budget travelers, 'platskart' (open sleeper) is the most economical way to travel long distances, often costing less than $15 for a 12-hour journey. For shorter distances and city travel, look for 'marshrutkas' (shared minivans) or use the 'Yandex Go' app for extremely cheap and reliable taxis.
