17-Day Northern Middle East Classic Highlights: Jordan, Iraq & Lebanon in July
Experience the ultimate test of budget backpacking as you traverse the cradle of civilization during the height of the summer heat. This 17-day journey focuses on the 'Northern' Middle East, connecting the historic capitals of Jordan, Iraq, and Lebanon. Designed for the ultra-lean traveler, you will survive on legendary street food, utilize local buses, and find shelter in the most affordable hostels and guesthouses available.
July brings intense heat to the region, but it also rewards travelers with local festivals and a raw, authentic look at life in these bustling metropolises. By prioritizing free landmarks, ruins, and the simple joy of a shared tea in a busy souk, you can experience the profound hospitality of the Middle East without breaking the bank.
The Itinerary
Day 1: Amman, Jordan - Arrival & Downtown Exploration
Arrival at Queen Alia International
Touch down in Amman. To save money, skip the taxi and take the Sariyah Airport Express bus to North Station or the 7th Circle for a fraction of the cost.
Downtown Amman (Al Balad) Walk
Drop your bags at a cheap hostel near King Faisal Street and wander through the gold and spice souks for a sensory overload that costs nothing.
Roman Theatre
Pay a small fee (or use your Jordan Pass) to sit on the ancient steps of this 6,000-seat theatre right in the city center.
Dinner at Hashem Restaurant
Enjoy the most famous falafel and hummus in the country. This legendary spot is incredibly budget-friendly and open 24/7.
Day 2: Amman, Jordan - Citadel & Panoramic Views
Jabal al-Qal'a (The Citadel)
Climb the hill to see the Temple of Hercules and the Umayyad Palace. The view of the rolling hills of Amman is the best in the city.
Duke's Diwan
Visit this historic heritage house turned cultural center. It is free to enter and offers a glimpse into early 20th-century Amman life.
Street Food Safari
Sample 'Knafeh' at Habibah Sweets. Join the long line of locals for this warm, cheesy, syrup-soaked pastry for under $2.
Sunset at Wild Jordan Center
Enjoy a panoramic view of the Citadel hill as the sun sets. While the cafe is pricier, the public balcony views are spectacular.
Day 3: Amman, Jordan - Modern Vibes & Street Art
Rainbow Street
Walk the most famous street in Amman. It's great for window shopping and spotting vibrant street art in the side alleys.
Lweibdeh Neighborhood
Wander through this bohemian district filled with small art galleries and murals. It’s the quieter, cooler cousin of the downtown area.
Jordan National Gallery of Fine Arts
Visit the public park surrounding the gallery for a peaceful break and to see outdoor sculptures by local artists.
Shawarma Dinner
Grab a large shawarma wrap from Reem on the 2nd Circle, a tiny kiosk that has been serving the same delicious meat for decades.
Day 4: Jerash, Jordan - Ancient Roman Decapolis
Local Bus to Jerash
Head to the North Bus Station (Tabarbour) and catch a local coaster bus to Jerash. It is the cheapest way to reach the Roman ruins.
The Ruins of Jerash
Explore the Oval Plaza, the Cardo Maximus, and the many temples. It is one of the best-preserved Roman cities in the world.
Lunch in the Souk
Skip the tourist restaurants inside the site and walk into the modern town's souk for cheap chicken rotisserie and bread.
Return to Amman
Catch the last bus back to the capital and enjoy a final evening walk through the Jabal Amman stairs.
Day 5: Amman to Baghdad, Iraq - The Long Journey East
Travel Prep & Transit
Prepare for a long travel day. Most backpackers take a flight from AMM to BGW as land borders for Western tourists can be unpredictable.
Flight to Baghdad
Fly over the desert into the legendary city of peace. Ensure you have your visa-on-arrival requirements ready (check current status).
Arrival in Baghdad
Negotiate a shared taxi from Baghdad International Airport to the Karrada or Al-Rashid district where budget hotels are located.
First Iraqi Meal
Try 'Masgouf', the national dish of grilled carp, at a local riverside eatery along the Tigris.
Day 6: Baghdad, Iraq - Al-Rashid & The Tigris
Al-Rashid Street
Walk this historic thoroughfare to see the crumbling colonial-era architecture and the bustling energy of one of Baghdad's oldest streets.
Mustansiriya Madrasah
Visit one of the oldest Islamic universities in the world, dating back to the Abbasid era. Entry fees for foreigners are usually modest.
Tigris River Boat Ride
Take a small motorboat across the Tigris for a few Iraqi Dinars to see the city skyline from the water.
Abu Nuwas Street
Join local families for a walk along the river park. It’s free, safe, and the best place to people-watch in the evening.
Day 7: Baghdad, Iraq - National Museum & Antiquity
The Iraq Museum
Spend hours exploring the incredible collection of Mesopotamian, Babylonian, and Assyrian artifacts. This is a world-class historical site.
Al-Zawra'a Park
A massive green space in the heart of the city. While the amusement park costs money, the walking paths offer a shaded respite from the July heat.
The Hands of Victory
View the massive crossed swords of the Triumphal Arch (monument to the Iran-Iraq war) from the public road access areas.
Karrada Shopping
Explore the Karrada district for cheap clothing and the best street-side fruit juices in Baghdad.
Day 8: Baghdad, Iraq - Books and Tea at Al-Mutanabbi
Al-Mutanabbi Street
The historic heart of Baghdad’s intellectual life. Browse thousands of books laid out on the sidewalk and visit the Shabandar Café.
Shabandar Café
Order a glass of 'Iraqi tea' (Chai) and soak in the atmosphere of this century-old literary haunt. It’s an essential experience.
Copper Souk (Safafeer)
Listen to the rhythmic hammering of metalworkers in this ancient market. It’s one of the last traditional craft markets in the city.
Qushla Clock Tower
Visit the Ottoman-era Qushla and sit in the gardens where locals gather for poetry and music performances.
Day 9: Baghdad to Babylon, Iraq - Ancient Wonders
Day Trip to Babylon
Take a shared taxi from the Baghdad South Garage to Hillah to visit the ruins of Babylon. It’s about a 2-hour journey.
The Lion of Babylon
See the Ishtar Gate (replica) and the original Lion of Babylon statue. Walk through the ruins of the Hanging Gardens' foundations.
Saddam’s Palace Ruins
Visit the abandoned palace overlooking Babylon. It’s a surreal contrast between ancient and modern history.
Return to Baghdad
Find a shared return taxi and grab a quick 'Laffa' (sandwich) for a cheap dinner back in Karrada.
Day 10: Baghdad, Iraq - Shrines and Spirituality
Kadhimayn Shrine
Visit the stunning golden-domed shrine of Al-Kadhimiya. Non-Muslims are often welcome to view the exterior and the vibrant surrounding markets.
Lunch in Kadhimiyah Souk
Try the local 'Tishreeb' (a bread-based stew) at a market stall for a very low price.
Firdos Square
Stand in the square that became famous globally in 2003. Today it is a symbol of the city's ongoing reconstruction and daily life.
Evening Shisha
Join the locals at a sidewalk cafe for a Shisha and more tea to celebrate your final night in Baghdad.
Day 11: Baghdad to Beirut, Lebanon - Mediterranean Bound
Morning Transit
Head to the airport for your flight to Beirut. Lebanon is geographically close but culturally distinct, offering a Mediterranean breeze.
Arrival in Beirut
Welcome to Lebanon! Take the 'LCC' red and white buses or a shared 'Service' (taxi) to reach the Hamra district.
Hamra Street Walk
Explore the intellectual heart of Beirut. It's full of bookstores, cafes, and affordable bakeries selling 'Manakish'.
Budget Mezze
Find a small local spot for hummus, tabbouleh, and falafel. Sharing plates is the most cost-effective way to eat here.
Day 12: Beirut, Lebanon - The Corniche and Rocks
Beirut Corniche
Walk the seaside promenade. It’s free, offers great views of the Mediterranean, and is where all of Beirut comes to exercise.
Raouche (Pigeon Rocks)
See the iconic rock formations in the sea. It’s the most photographed spot in Beirut and costs nothing to view from the cliffs.
American University of Beirut (AUB)
Walk by the historic campus. The surrounding area is vibrant and has many student-priced food stalls.
Sunset at the Port
View the resilient city from the coastal road, reflecting on the history and spirit of the Lebanese people.
Day 13: Beirut, Lebanon - Downtown and History
Place de l'Étoile
Explore the renovated downtown area. See the clock tower and the nearby Roman ruins that were discovered during rebuilding.
Mohammad Al-Amin Mosque
Visit the massive blue-domed mosque, an architectural landmark of the city. Be sure to dress modestly.
Saint George Maronite Cathedral
Located right next to the mosque, this illustrates the religious diversity of Lebanon. Entry is free.
Saifi Village
Walk through this upscale, colorful neighborhood to see the 'Quartier des Arts' architecture.
Day 14: Byblos (Jbeil), Lebanon - The Oldest Port
Bus to Byblos
Take a local bus from the Charles Helou station or the Dora intersection heading north. It’s a cheap and scenic coastal ride.
Old Souk of Byblos
Wander through the cobblestone streets of one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world.
Byblos Citadel
Explore the Crusader castle and the Phoenician archaeological site. Use your student ID if you have one for a discount.
The Old Harbor
Sit by the ancient stone harbor as the sun sets over the Mediterranean before catching the bus back to Beirut.
Day 15: Beirut, Lebanon - Mar Mikhael and Gemmayzeh
Stairs of Saint Nicolas
Walk up the famous 'Escalier de l'Art' in Gemmayzeh, a long flight of stairs that often hosts outdoor art exhibitions.
Sursock Museum
Visit this contemporary art museum housed in a stunning 19th-century villa. Admission is free (donations welcome).
Mural Hunting
Beirut is famous for its political and social street art. Explore the side streets of Mar Mikhael to find massive murals.
Street Life
Grab a local 'Almaza' beer from a corner store and join the crowds on the sidewalk for the cheapest way to enjoy Beirut's famous nightlife.
Day 16: Beirut, Lebanon - National Museum & Parks
National Museum of Beirut
See the incredible collection of Phoenician sarcophagi. The building itself still bears the scars of the civil war.
Horsh Beirut
Beirut’s largest green park. It’s a great place to escape the city noise and have a budget picnic lunch.
Badaro Neighborhood
Explore this trendy, leafy district. It’s more relaxed than Hamra and great for a final afternoon coffee.
Farewell Dinner
Go back to Hamra for a final plate of 'Saj' bread wraps filled with za'atar and cheese.
Day 17: Beirut, Lebanon - Final Souvenirs & Departure
Last Minute Souvenirs
Visit the local bakeries to buy boxes of Lebanese sweets like 'Baklawa' to take home.
Zaitunay Bay
Walk around the luxury marina for a final look at Beirut's modern side before heading to the airport.
Travel to Airport
Catch a shared 'Service' taxi back to Rafic Hariri International Airport for your flight home.
Departure
End of your 17-day epic Northern Middle East journey. Reflect on the incredible history and hospitality you've experienced.
Best Time to Visit Middle East
The Middle East is best visited in the shoulder seasons (March to May and September to November) when temperatures are mild. However, this itinerary takes place in July, which is the peak of summer. Expect extreme heat, especially in Baghdad (40°C-50°C) and Amman (30°C-35°C). The advantage of July is the long daylight hours and the lack of other tourists at major sites. Always carry water, wear light linens, and plan your outdoor activities for the early morning or late evening.
Visas & Border Crossings
Visa requirements for Jordan, Iraq, and Lebanon vary significantly by nationality. Jordan offers the 'Jordan Pass' which covers the visa fee for many. Iraq now offers a visa-on-arrival for many Western citizens at international airports, but land crossings remain complex. Lebanon typically offers a free one-month visa-on-arrival for many travelers. Crucially, ensure your passport does not have evidence of travel to certain restricted countries if you plan to visit all three, as this can lead to entry denials at some borders.
Getting Around Middle East
Inter-city travel in this region is best done via a mix of budget flights and local shared taxis. Within Jordan and Lebanon, the 'Service' (shared taxi) and local buses are the lifeblood of budget travel. Between countries like Jordan and Iraq, flying is the most realistic and safest option for backpackers. Once in the cities, walking is the best way to see the historic centers, while apps like Uber and Careem offer transparent pricing for longer urban trips when local buses are too confusing.
